Adventure Kokoda Treks the spirit lives
Issue 001 : Januray 2009
Adventure Kokoda Niusleta
Adventure Kookoda Treks
In this issue...
Editorial 2009 Salute to the 39th Dinner
5,600 trekkers in 2008 Have your say
Show us your Tats Kokoda Bursary
The Nicole Smith Kokoda Bursary Kokoda Pikannini Program
Warren Bartlett Kokoda Day Service
2008 Kokoda Reunion Dinner Kokoda Trek-Fit Sessions
Some just don't get it Upcoming Events
Editorial ...
Charlie Lynn at IsuravaWhen I asked our PNG guides to explain sorcery to me they advised that if somebody does the wrong thing by them its easy to arrange somebody to kill them. 'H'mmm - that's what we call a 'hit-man' I thought! In their traditional society sorcery and witchcraft refer by and large to ideas held by people about the powers of other people in general to harm, not to actual knowledge and powers possessed exclusively by a few anti-social individuals. Its good to see the PNG Government declaring a crack-down on the modern adaption as a defence against pay-back killings.

Another positive step for PNG authorities is their ban on betel-nut spitting in public. Whilst chewing betel-nut is almost akin to having a cup of coffee in Australia the practice of unloading it on a wall or footpath is a 'turn-off' for many visitors. The ban, together with the beautification program in the gateway city of Port Moresby is making the city a more pleasant place to visit. Beyond the city the attractions of culture, diving, surfing, fishing, trekking, etc are simply outstanding.

The Australian Government has been working patiently in partnership with the PNG Government to develop a proper management structure for Kokoda Trail trekking operations. Mr James Enage has been appointed as the Chairman of the interim Board of Directors; Ms Annete Dean has been engaged as the CEO; Mr Silas Sullivan as Operations Manager; Mr Michael Rui as Administration/Finance Manager; and Ms Janet Toliagur as the Receptionist.

Mr Warren Bartlett, who has undertaken all of these roles on a salary of around $12,500 without any overtime or staff assistance over the past four years will now work as the Inbound Tour Operator for Adventure Kokoda. We are all indebted to Warren for the enormous amount of work he has done on behalf of trekkers since he was first appointed Executive Officer of the Kokoda Track Authority in 2004.

Trekking across Kokoda continues to increase in popularity. In 2008 a record 5600 trekked across it and there are now 38 Kokoda trek operators. Fortunately most go directly across the direct eco-tourist track. We trek on the more difficult wartime track so we miss most of the traffic. I hope to find the old wartime track between Kagi and Templetons Crossing next week - this will complete our mapping of the complete wartime track.

The public and political awareness of Kokoda is a positive development in our quest to have military history and Melanesian studies as part of our educational curriculum. Last year we introduced a Machiavelli trek to provide an opportunity for our politicians to understand why we need to do commit to these educational programs. Politicians who accompanied us across Kokoda last year included the leader of the NSW Opposition, Barry O'Farrell, the WA Attorney-General, Jim McGinty and Victorian MPs, Gary Blackwood, Hugh Delahunty, Terry Mulder, Bill Sykes and David Morris.

We are indebted to Prime Minister Kevin Rudd for his personal interest in protecting the Kokoda Trail. His emissary, Sandy Hollway and the Head of the Heritage Division in the Department of Environment, Water Resources, Heritage and Arts, James Shelvin and his staff have done a great job in bringing the new organisation together. The beneficiaries of the new management system will be the villagers along the track who will now receive their fair share of benefits from the trekking industry. We might even get an environmental toilet or two for trekkers!

This year we are commencing a 'Kokoda Pikinnini Program' to assist young villagers along the track with education and health supplies. Our major fundraising programs to support the program will be our 2009 Salute to the 39th Dinner at Parliament House in Melbourne on 27 March; our 'Kokoda Reunion Dinner' at Parliament House in Sydney on 7th August ; and our new 'Kokoda City to Surf Trek' from Sydney to Bondi on 9th August.

Hepi trekking,
Charlie
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2009 Salute to the 39th Dinner . . .
Our 2009 'Salute to the 39th Dinner' will be held again at Parliament House in Spring Street, Melbourne on Friday, 27 March 2009 at 6.30 p.m.39th Infantry Support Batallion Badge

Our special guests for the evening are veterans of the 39th Battalion from the Kokoda campaign. Anybody who attended our inaugural dinner last year will vouch for the fact that it is an honour to share the evening with these men.

The dinner will be hosted by Gary Blackwood MP. Gary has trekked Kokoda three time previously and is in training for another one in July this year. He will bringing Ted Bailleau along to meet the veterans and trekkers.

This is a great opportunity for trek groups to share to get together and share their experiences once again - and learn from the veterans what it was like in 1942.

It is also a great opportunity for trekkers who have booked for 2009 to get some 'friendly advice' and get a taste for the spirit of Kokoda before they leave.

The cost of the function is $165 per person - guests are most welcome.

Dress for the evening is lounge suit for men and evening wear for ladies. Miniatures (medals) may be worn.

Any funds raised from the evening will support our Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel program along the track in PNG.

Click here to book for the dinner.

Click here to download a copy of the invitation.

Alana, Nihkita, George and BeckyKokoda Trekkers, Alana, Nikhita, and Becky meet Private George Collins, at the 2008 Salute to the 39th Dinner at Parliament House in Melbourne

Click here to make make your booking for the dinner.
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5,600 trekkers in 2008 . . .
More than 5,600 trekkers crossed the Kokoda Trail in 2008 according to statistics released by the PNG Kokoda Track Authority. Kokoda Track Authority

The statistics also reveal that there are now 38 trek companies operating on the Kokoda Trail.

Of these, 27 are in arrears with their trek fees. The total amount owed to the Kokoda Track Authority is $247,430 - almost a quarter of a million Australian $ or half-a-million PNG Kina!

One Australian company is more than A$59,000 or PNGK 104,600 in arrears!

This is more in line with the spirit of the carpetbagger* than the spirit of Kokoda.

Trek operators who have withheld trek fees would be aware that villagers along the track live in a subsistence economy and have no income during the wet season. A half-a-million Kina would have helped sustain the villagers during the wet season - but they had to go without. A poor indictment indeed.

Adventure Kokoda is proud of the fact that we led 753 trekkers across the track in 2008 - and paid all of our trek fees - in full and in advance. The average size of our trek groups was 21.

Click here to see the annual trekking statistics between 2001 and 2008.

*Carpetbagger n. someone who takes up residence in a place and exploits the local people (Macquarie Dictionary)
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Have your say ...
We have developed a blog to get feedback on issues that we feel are important with Kokoda and our relationship with Papua New Guinea. Please have a look at it and let us know what you think. All you have to do is click on the subject below:

Should 'Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angels' get a Medal from the Australian Government

Kokoda: Track or Trail?

Education - A Trekkers' Legacy

Should we allow PNG citizens access to seasonal work on Australian farms?

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Show us you your tats . . .
There is not doubt that the Kokoda experience impacts on different people in different ways. Over the years we have had many people make life-changing decisions as a result of their experience on Kokoda. Some have returned to do it a number of times while others have simply 'gone walkabout'.

A group of Adventure Kokoda ladies recently decided to record their experience with a tat!

We would be interested from anybody else who wanted to share their tats or their stories with us - please send pics or stories to charlie@kokodatreks.com.au.

Kokoda Tats
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Kokoda Bursary. . .
This program has been established in partnership with the Port Moresby Grammar School.
Charlie Lynn and Alfreda Nakue
The school's philosophy is based on providing educational opportunities to bright young PNG students who have potential but do not have the means to attend a school of this nature.

A Kokoda Bursary, which is named after trekkers who support the program, will pay the school fees for a selected student for one year. Progressive reports on the student are provided to the sponsor at the end of each term.

Michael Luff, the Deputy Principal of the school is administrating the Kokoda Bursary Program. He has advised that there are a couple of needy families who will not be able to send their children to school in 2009 without financial support. If you would like to help please contact Michael at deputy principal@pomgrammar.ac.pg

Adventure Kokoda have committed to a bursary for two students, Alfreda Nakue (pictured with Charlie Lynn at the school) and Vincent Simborota, the son of a Corporal in the PNG Army.

An Honour Board will be constructed at the School which will have the name of each Kokoda Bursary Donor listed on it. A web page of donors will also be added to the school web site.

Our 'Bring a Buk' campaign has been a great success with our trekkers donating 1400 books together with other school and sporting items (click here to see the list) last year.
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'The Nicole Smith Kokoda Bursary' . . .
Trekkers paid tribute to Private Nicole Smith at our Kokoda Re-Union Dinner on 2 November last year.
Nicole Smith on Kokoda
Nicole completed the 2007 Anzac Trek with Adventure Kokoda. As a result of her experience she enlisted in the Australian Army and completed her recruit and corps training last year. She was driving to her first posting in Darwin when her tyre blew out and she was tragically killed.

Among the tributes we received on Nicole:

From Kam Sue: 'I remember Nicole drew a bit of attention when we first gathered at Port Moresby. Initially she caught our eye because she was attractive but we were soon thinking "she will never make it." This was confirmed (we thought) the next morning at the bag weigh-in when Nicole's bag was one of the heaviest and she admitted that she didn't have a personal porter. I'm pretty sure there were a few quiet sniggers when her bag went on the scales and I recall a few suggestions to "leave the hair drier at the hotel!" Any lack of confidence we had eased a bit as we were certain that at least we would make it further than Nicole. We were soon put in our place by Nicole! By the end of the first day she was comfortable, composed, happy and miles in front of us four wheezing, sweaty machos. She got the title "Pocket Rocket" early on in the trek and earned it more and more every day'.

From Grant Halloran: 'Nicky was such an inspiration on our Kokoda trek in 2007. She just kept plugging away, step after step, carrying that massive pack, which most of us were sure weighed more than she did! Towards the end of the trek I asked her how on earth she kept her clothes so pristine and clean, for she truly defied the laws of Kokoda muddiness. She revealed that she was carrying a new shirt for every day. No wonder her pack was so huge! Nicky was such a lovely girl to all of us other trekkers. Her will to get through that very tough ordeal was very motivating. She never muttered one complaint. She didn't’t say a lot but when she did it was always warm. I’ll always remember that last day in Port Moresby, with our t-shirt presentations from Charlie, Nicole got the biggest cheer by far'.

From Chris Moriaty:
'Whenever I have sat down and told folk about my Kokoda experience Nicole is always one of the stars of my story. She was indefatigable.Her pack was twice the size she was (and no doubt twice as heavy). She just kept going, up unrelentingly steep mountains, down impossibly slippery slopes. My knees were aching and my chest straining for breath… and Nicole just kept going, never once giving even the slightest hint of discomfort, always with a smile on her face.She will remain for all time in my mind an inspiration'.

We have dedicated a Kokoda Bursary to Nicole's memory. One young Koiari female student will be educated at Port Moresby Grammar School under the 'Nicole Smith Kokoda Bursary' beginning this month.
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Kokoda Pikinnini Program . . .
We are commencing our Adventure Kokoda Pikinnini Program with our first Anzac trek in April this year.
Pikininis' on Kokoda
Under this program each of our trek groups will be assigned to a particular village along the track. Each of our trekkers will be invited to bring one or two small items with them from Australia. This could a grade 3 reading book; a set of crayons; a mouth organ or flute; a football or tennis ball; a couple of pencils; a even a packet of Panadol/bandaids. A list of appropriate items will be advised to our trekkers in their trek mailout package.

Adventure Kokoda will commit to providing a backpack full of school supplies to accompany each of our trek groups. These supplies will be donated to the respective villages at a small 'sing-sing' ceremony when the group arrives. The program will be supervised and monitored by our Adventure Kokoda Trek Leaders.

Little things make a big difference in Papua New Guinea. If each of our trekkers commits to bringing one or two small items it will bring a lot of joy to a lot of young people over the course of the year.
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Inagural Kokoda Day Service . . .
After 66 years it is impossible to get agreement from various ex-service organisations about a suitable day to commemorate our involvement in the Pacific War. We Kokoda Track Memorial Walkwaysubmitted that the 3rd November should be proclaimed as Kokoda Day because that is the day our diggers raised the Australian flag on the Kokoda plateau after having been driven back across the Owen Staney Ranges three months previously. That flag raising symbolised the turning of the tide in the Pacific War. Click here to read our submission.

The government took advice from a 'Battle of Australia Committee, who were unable to get agreement on a particular date, action, battle or date from the wider ex-service community. They therefore settled on the first Wednesday in September each year to commemorate 'Battle of Australia Day'. Only a committee could decide to commemorate a battle that never happened on that day. It will have some resonance for some in the ex-service community but none at all in the wider community.

The Chairman of the Kokoda Track Walkway, Mr Rusty Priest, persuaded his Board to conduct an annual service at the walkway to commemorate the raising of the Australian flag on the Kokoda plateau on the 3rd of November each year.
Our Kokoda Day will be dedicated to the memory of the PNG Wartime Carriers who have never been officially recognised for their contribution to the Kokoda campaign - and other campaigns throughout New Guinea. To our eternal shame they have never been issued with a medal for their service. Click here to read our submission to have them get a medal.

The inaugural service was conducted on 3 November 2008. It was a splendid service attended by Kokoda trekkers and veterans of the Kokoda campaign. A PNG ladies choir travelled up from Wollongong to sing their national anthem in a way that only PNG singers can. A solo harpist, Elizabeth Lowrencev, provided a beautiful touch to the service.

Rusty Priest acknowledged that this was the most appropriate way to acknowledge the selfless service of the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels in the New Guinea campaigns.

Rusty then joined the Mayor of Canada Bay (and Kokoda trekker) Cr Angelo Tsirekas to turn the first sod for the construction of the 'Ralph Honner Education Centre at the Kokoda Track Memorial Walkway. This will allow visitors to get a briefing on the Kokoda campaign before they visit the various battle stations and surrounds.

Click here to see more about the splendid Kokoda Track Memorial Walkway.

Our next Kokoda Day Flag Raising Re-enactment will be conducted on Tuesday, 3 November 2009.



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Our 2008 Kokoda Reunion Dinner . . .
Our 2008 Kokoda Reunion dinner was an outstanding success with 130 trekkers reliving their experiences on the track.
Caroline Pemberton 2007 Miss World Australia
Our guest speaker for the evening was our 2007 Miss World Australia winner, Carolyn Pemberton, who joined our 2008 Anzac trek across Kokoda with the NSW Leader of the Opposition, Barry O'Farrell and his son, Tom. Racing car driver Ian Luff was also on the trek and gave a great rendition of his attempts to get a hot shower in Port Moresby at the end of his trek - it turned out to be almost more exciting than the trek!!

We dedicated the dinner to Nicole Smith (see story above) and raised sufficient funds on the night to sponsor the 'Nicole Smith Kokoda Bursary' which will educate a female student at Port Moresby Grammar School each year.

Adventure Kokoda donated a trek across the Kokoda Trail for auction on the evening. We also auctioned a framed Kokoda map with Bruce Kingsbury's replica medals (click here to see the map) and a dozen bottles of 'Trek Leaders Kokoda Wine kindly donated by one of our trekkers, Kevin Jackson. All up we raised approximately $30,000 for our Kokoda Trail Pikinnini Program which will provide educational and health supplies to villages along the track. Click here to see the details of our programs on Kokoda.

Our 2009 Kokoda Reunion Dinner will be held at Parliament House on Friday, 7 August 2009 - we will send out further details later but put the date in your diary now.
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Warren Bartlett - Unsung Champion of Kokoda . . .
Warren Bartlett has been the unsung champion of the Kokoda Trail since the inception of the Kokoda Track Authority (KTA). Since he was appointed to the KTA in 2002 Warren Bartletttrekker numbers have increased substantially:

. 2001: 76
. 2002: 365
. 2003 1074
. 2004: 1584
. 2005: 2374
. 2006: 3747
. 2007: 5146
. 2008: 5621

In 2001 there 3 or 4 trek operators on the Kokoda Trail - today there are 38.

One of the early challenges facing Kokoda was the lack of a proper management organisation and the Australian government. As trekker numbers began to increase in 2002 the PNG government was lobbied to provide a management authority to co-ordinate trekking activities.

The Kokoda Track Authority was proclaimed in 2003 and a Management Board appointed in 2004 with Warren Bartlett as the Executive Officer. Warren was well-suited for the position as he was a former Patrol Officer or Kiap and has lived in PNG for 40 years. Unfortunately he had to be engaged under PNG pay rates because of the lack of interest from Australia - his salary was approximately $12,500 p.a. - and no overtime was payable. No trained staff were made available to assist him.

The challenging of managing the track were daunting in view of the rapid increase in trekker numbers. Governance quickly became an issue as the Board developed inventive ways to gain access to trek fees on a daily basis. Warren had to personally process trek permit applications as he could not trust anybody else to handle money. He was on-call 24/7 during the trekking season and personally managed almost all emergency evacuations from the track. He was expected to mediate all landowner disputes and competing demands from clan leaders, villagers, trek operators, PNG guides and trekkers. He was also expected to deal with three levels of government on a regular basis.

Between 2004 and 2008 Warren processed 18,472 trekkers across Kokoda. He was actually running a multimillion dollar operation with no staff and a salary which is less than the dole in Australia.

Fortunately an application to mine Kokoda caused the Australian government to snap out of its apathetic slumber and take an interest in protecting the environs of the track. Kevin Rudd appointed Sandy Hollway as his Kokoda emissary with a direct link to the Prime Minister's office. Since then the Australian government has been working in partnership with the PNG Government and a new PNG Authority has been appointed to manage the Kokoda Trail with effect from January 2009.

The contribution Warren Bartlett has made to the development of the Kokoda Trail, under the most arduous conditions, should be acknowledged. It is certainly appreciated by those who he has worked with since he was appointed Executive Officer five years ago.
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Kokoda Trek-Fit Sessions ...
Adventure Kokoda Trek-Fit sessions have started in Brisbane and Melbourne and will begin in Sydney before our scheduled Anzac treks. These are great opportunities to meet up with our trek leaders and John Nalderdiscuss any issues concerning you in your preparation and training for your trek. They are also a good opportunity for previous trekkers to maintain their trek fitness and share some of the experiences with prospective trekkers.

John Nalder runs our trek-fit programs in Brisbane on a regular Saturday mornings at Mt Coot ha. Trekkers meet at 8.00 a.m. and the trek begins at 8.30 a.m. All you need to bring is a good attitude, at least two litres of water and a biscuit or some jelly beans. Please contact John directly on john@kokodatreks.com.au or call him on 0410 058 015 to advise him that you will attend and to confirm all of the details.

Bernie Rowell run our trek-fit programs at Longwarry east of Melbourne. To get there you take the Princes Freeway to Longwarry, turn left at the BP Service Station then proceed 800 metres to a T-intersection and turn right onto the Princes Highway. Turn right and proceed for 500 metres then turn left into Labertouche North Road. Follow this road Bernie Rowellinto the Bunyip State Park Road - take the right fork until you hit the T-intersection with the gravel road. Turn left here and go to the car park about 50 metres from the intersection to meet Bernie and his band of trekkers. Please call Bernie on 0408 104 020 to confirm that you will be attending - or to ask for more specific directions.

There is no charge for these session as our trek leaders have to keep themselves fit and trek-ready all year. Trekkers have found the sessions very helpful in assisting them to prepare for their journey.

You will find that all of your questions and concerns about trekking Kokoda will be answered during these sessions.

We will advise you of our Sydney program shortly.
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Some just don't get it . . .
Victoria Police Media Release, Tuesday, 13 January 2009

Search and Rescue Squad urge adventurers to be prepared

Victoria Police’s Search and Rescue Squad is warning people to "let someone know before you go" and to properly plan outdoor trips to help avoid unnecessary large-scale police searches. Twenty-five per cent of the 300 incidents the Search and Rescue Squad responded to in 2008 involved looking for missing people in Victoria’s bushland.

Senior Constable Braun said other examples where searches could have been avoided include:

. 4X4 drivers entered into their vehicle GPS the shortest distance home and followed the given directions. The road they drove onto was closed during winter (snow covered), they ignored signs, became bogged and spent two night out until rescued by police.

. A man left his house following a family dispute in a small farming community without telling anyone. This resulted in concerns for his welfare and the commencement of a large-scale police and volunteer search. It was later discovered that the man travelled interstate for a few days to have a break from his family.

. Two bush walkers training for the Kokoda Track rang police 10 kilometres from their car complaining of fatigue. They wanted police to pick them up!

Cooeee - if they eventually decide to trek Kokoda they should stick with the eco-tourist rounte!
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Upcoming Events in 2009 ...
Friday, 27 March 2009
Salute to the 39th Kokoda Dinner
Parliament House
Spring Street
Melbourne


Friday, 7 August 2009
Kokoda Reunion Dinner
Parliament House
Macquarie Street
Sydney

Sunday, 9 August 2009
14 Km Adventure Kokoda City to Surf Trek
Sydney to Bondi Beach
Trekkers will be invited to enter teams into the 2009 City to Surf - we will use it as a fundraiser for our Adventure Kokoda Pikinini Program on the Kokoda Trail. More details to come soon BUT IN THE MEANTIME PUT THE EVENT IN YOUR DIARIES

3 November 2009
Kokoda Track Memorial Walkway Flag Raising Service
Rhodes Park
Concord NSW
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Adventure Kokoda ...
Charlie LynnKokoda Logo
Adventure Kokoda
PO Box 303
Camden NSW 2570
0439 303 303
www.kokodatreks.com
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